Dmm brass offsets vs peanuts reddit. In my experience, offsets fit in every placement that a regular but fits, but the same isn’t true of the reverse. 75). They come in micro sizes, and the large “ scope ” in the side of their Totems & Dragons for the secondary part of my rack, with the cutover probably at one of each red. I've got the BD micros and DMM brass offsets to go with my Wallnuts and alloy offsets. For the peenuts I usually only carry the #4 and 5. Every size of Alloy Offset has a robust 12kN strength rating. The tapered design increases security in flaring placements, and DMM uses soft brass to reduce the chance of fracturing rock sending you on a big ride. Es sential for climbers who frequent quarried rock areas, Peenuts feature an innovative offset and tapered design that increases surface contact with the rock and spreads the load more > At Mt. 25-11, plus the 2 biggest torque nuts and 2 smallest micros extending the range, perfect! DMM walnuts size 1-11 (plus torque nuts 1-4), doubled up with DMM peanuts and offsets (plus DMM micro-nuts size 00-0. 77 fall. Placing them is the same as I have dmm brass offsets and imps. The Micro Wallnuts work pretty well on slate but aren't as good on most other rock types. Of course your mileage may vary. g slate) and a set of peanuts for regular routes. Jan 6, 2020 · Comparing these options, we'd say the Peenuts are a better all-around trad climbing nut, while the DMM HB Brass Offset is best for aid climbing and the tiniest, trickiest to protect traditionally protected routes. Jul 23, 2013 · Hi, I love my DMM Allow offsets and find their shape a great addition to my rack; the peenuts have a similar offset shape and are roughly 1/2 to 3 in wallnut sizes- it seems great to have the offset shape in smaller sizes too. Apr 15, 2021 · The rest of my rack is DMM - Wallnuts, Brass & Alloy offsets and Peanuts. My DMM offsets place like magic and feel more well made than the BD ones. The groove down the centre of the DMM nuts can be placed around irregularities in the placement which will help hold it in place. They're still totally bomber and will become increasingly chewed up -but still bomber- as you use them. The offsets are a little more useful, but I've still only placed them a handful of times. I have the smaller sizes as well, but it's rare for me to use them. Buy now at Bananafingers and enjoy free shipping on purchases over £60. Enhance your gear with DMM Brass Offsets to handle every trad climbing adventure. for when the shit really hits the fan, I have the smallest 4 or so BD Micro nutsand for aid climbing, I have DMM offset brass. The head's asymmetrical taper gives us solid protection in flared cracks and pin scars, while its brass-silicone blend gives a serious bite that won't pull I don’t think it’s objectively true that offsets have lower holding power, though. Jan 26, 2013 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. After that finish out Apr 23, 2020 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. Sep 23, 2015 · In reply to Pesda potato: I would go for DMM Peanuts for the smaller sizes and DMM Alloys for the larger. Where I climb in the Sierra I rarely take my normal nuts as my offsets are that much better. But I found a deal on backcountry for Wild Country nuts 1-8 for $35 and 6-10 for $50, a total of $85 for 1-10 plus extras of the 6, 7, and 8. Not sure how small is micro to you but in my experience, if you put a smaller cam on your rack you will definitely place it, and it doesn’t weigh much. I carry a single set of WC superlight offset rocks as well. e what sizes, how many ill need etc i was thinking: - set of 1-4 DMM micro wallnuts - set of 1-5 DMM peanuts - couple of brass offsets what are your opinions on this, advice please higherclimbingwales 22 Jun 2010 Apr 15, 2021 · The rest of my rack is DMM - Wallnuts, Brass & Alloy offsets and Peanuts. The top placement usually feels about 50% higher force than the climber, which is limited to roughly 8kn by the rope in a huge factor 1. Their large surface area helps dissipate forces, making them suitable for protecting fragile rock. Toby Archer, a big fan of the old HB Offsets, goes out cragging and takes them through their paces. The last few years have seen several manufacturers produce many varieties of offset nuts, and while these now have a lot of worthy competition, we feel they remain at the top and are often Oct 31, 2024 · Tiny brass climbing nuts are considered mandatory for any thinly protected route, from steep El Cap aid lines to Eldorado Canyon sketch-fests, and the DMM HB Brass Offsets are our review team's pick for the best micro nut. May 13, 2009 · > I'd wait for the DMM/HB brass offsets. 25-11, plus the 2 biggest torque nuts and 2 smallest micros extending the range, perfect! Apr 26, 2022 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. OP JayPee630 04 Mar 2014 In reply to Choss: Jun 19, 2015 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. I place more offsets than standard nuts and have got a double rack of them! Reply reply BOXDisme • May 6, 2024 · Then you've got shape issues, you can have ofset (forthcoming dmm brasses, HB and peanuts) which some people swear by and are often better on slate or symetrical (BD micros, RP, wildconutry/dmm micros) which are much more useful on grit and in thigs with parralel small cracks. The smallest wallnut I usually carry is the #2. Brass Offsets are crucial for protecting small flared cracks, often fitting perfectly where nothing else will go. Arapiles on many of the lower grade routes DMM Offsets and Brass Offsets are Brass Offsets are crucial for protecting small flared cracks, often fitting perfectly where nothing else will go. I also run DMM offsets, I feel okay about them. Although saying that I've got rocks as well, my usual rack is a complete set of wallnuts, 4-7 rocks, dmm alloy offsets, and depending on the route peanuts and brass micros. Metolius offset mastercams for aid climbing. Additionally they will match the DMM offsets which everyone also swears by (BD now makes offset nuts, never tried em tho). Like their aluminum counterparts, they are the most updated version of a tried and true classic. HB Brass Offsets are offset micro wires investment cast from silicon bronze and silver soldered onto stainless wires, these little units come in seven sizes. In Pembroke I find it’s very useful to have doubles of DMM offset nuts in the gold, blue, and red sizes. Micro protection for small offset cracks Peenuts have the same asymmetrical taper as Alloy Offsets, allowing them to protect flared and irregular shaped cracks more effectively than symmetrical nuts. I've recently started trad climbing as well and am using DMM nut set 3 (includes a set of nuts, offsets and hexes). The Offsets stay on my rack pretty much permanently and but the others are only used on rare occasions, including when climbing on slate. Irregular is better. In my opinion they are much Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. That being said, as you can see from the numbers, i'm a big fan of the totem cams. Mar 7, 2009 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. I've also got a set of brass offsets and find them equally useful depending on the crack. Apr 29, 2014 · In reply to Oujmik: DMM walnuts size 1-11 (plus torque nuts 1-4), doubled up with DMM peanuts and offsets (plus DMM micro-nuts size 00-0. The brass used for the head of the nut is soft enough to bite into placements, but hard enough to resist deforming and pulling through. Agree completely. micro nuts, offset nuts, brass nuts, cams and more. The alloy offsets are very versatile due to the cut outs on the sides. Peanuts bite really well and the angle of taper seems to suit rhyolite cracks. After that finish out The working range of small cams is very small (1-3mm); so placing them is always complicated. I've found offsets to a significant degree but not quite as much in sandstone, basalt and quartzite also. Very similar but better in every respect with the exception of a very specific type of pin scar. Apr 1, 2022 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. Alloy Offsets protect irregular and flared cracks that regular nuts cannot. DMM passive protection and active protection for trad climbing, and ice and winter protection. Price and other details may vary based on product size and color. He finds them lacking in one I have dmm brass offsets and imps. Product Info for DMM Brass Offsets Brass Offsets are crucial for protecting small flared cracks, often fitting perfectly where nothing else will go. Aug 23, 2020 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. The dmm alloy offsets will definitely joining my rack but can anyone shed any light on the benefits of peenuts vs the dmm brass offsets? Totems to black (bd 0. That gives me a full double set of static protection from size 0. DMM Brass Offsets have long been recognized as the go-to choice for thin, hard-to-protect trad routes and clean aid lines. American that usually is aiding or climbing granite. For free climbing, the DMM Peanuts are awesome. DMM have brought an old favourite back to the market, Alloy Offsets. Seconded. It could be quite likely that your gear will hit more than 5kn in a 20 foot fall, depending on many variables. After buying dmm alloys and peanuts, I stopped carrying the regular set and have never looked back. When they were released, they were considered a niche piece, but now they're the gold standard of passive protection. I have been using X4 micro and offset camalots for a long time and I really like them. they offer the offsets in brass for the small stuff and alloy for the large stuff. But no one explains in detail exactly why they are better than the standard non-offset nuts I have (DMM wallnuts, like op). What nut sets do you own? And your opinion of it. Small but mighty. Are they worth getting? ML. The overwhelming consensus recommendation always seems to be for these DMM alloy offsets. A little difficult to tell the IMPs and brass offsets apart without close inspection so some minor thought with racking is required. DMM offsets are popular, though I prefer a the Wild Country Superlight Offset Rocks paired with the Superlight half nuts (non-offset) sets. Wires soldered directly into heads for strength The wires of IMPS and Brass Offsets are soldered directly into their heads. So I'm seeking potential burner nuts or replacement for the Trango Oct 25, 2024 · The DMM Alloy Offset nuts are the latest iteration of the original HB offset nut. Difference in weight is definitely noticeable. Shop for DMM Nuts at REI - Browse our extensive selection of trusted outdoor brands and high-quality recreation gear. DMM walnuts size 1-11 (plus torque nuts 1-4), doubled up with DMM peanuts and offsets (plus DMM micro-nuts size 00-0. 2) and below that blue ballnut and brass offset nuts for granite Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. Moved PermanentlyThe document has moved here. However, a partner has DMM offsets and to get something different I got BD offsets and the BD's offsets are junk. If it helps I carry a set of DMM Wallnuts (similar to you bd stoppers) and a set of DMM alloy offsets and plan to add a set of peanuts to this. Elevate your trad climbing game with DMM Brass Offsets! Shop now at Bananafingers for free EU shipping over €70! Price match promise! Apr 15, 2021 · The rest of my rack is DMM - Wallnuts, Brass & Alloy offsets and Peanuts. I've got sets of all 3 - Peanuts, Micro Wallnuts and HB Offsets. I don't even carry standard nuts because they fit in so many more places better. P. With the Brass Offsets and Peanuts I'm not short of offset options in the smaller sizes so I found the smallest Superlights didn't add much so I didn't hang onto them. DMM offsets are seriously rad. I find that I use some of each on most climbs and I don't mind carrying the extra stoppers (they are pretty light compared to cams) so I carry both. I find the hexes and offsets tend to have the strongest placements and get placed more often but I definely still use the nuts a lot. I'm running old Tango "made by Hudy Sports" nuts, and I recently realized that they are actually offset in one plane and parallel in another plane. Looking for DMM brass offset nutscomment sorted by Best Top New Controversial Q&A Add a Comment AutoModerator • Additional comment actions u/AeroelasticPiper has the following flair: 0 Transactions | New Seller If I had to buy my first set of nut's over again I'd go with the DMM even though I haven't used them. They are slightly more likely to get stuck 2 colors of nail polish. I have dmm brass offsets and imps. Nov 4, 2012 · I would recommend DMM Peanuts over DMM Brass Offsets particularly if you climb on granite more than desert sandstone. May 30, 2024 · Why We Like The DMM HB Brass Offset Set As we go up in grade, the placements get fewer, so we add the DMM HB Brass Offset Set to our rack to utilize the route's smaller, irregular cracks. Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. the dmm offsets are actually two different sets and cover the range from tiny up to med-large. 23 results for "dmm offset nuts" Results Check each product page for other buying options. e what sizes, how many ill need etc i was thinking: - set of 1-4 DMM micro wallnuts - set of 1-5 DMM peanuts - couple of brass offsets what are your opinions on this, advice please higherclimbingwales 22 Jun 2010 Skip the BD stoppers, also ‘meh’. I've found the peanuts to be quite good too, I should really get some rather than keep borrowing friends sets. Start marking your gear on non-wear metal surfaces (biner recesses, flat top of the cam lobe, etc) so it's easier to sort out. Mr-Cowdrey UKC Supporter22 Jun 2010 im looking at getting a set of micro wires, but im not sure what to buy i. Jan 12, 2021 · Below the small size, I have a couple brass I keep in the standard set for free climbing. 25-11, plus the 2 biggest torque nuts and 2 smallest micros extending the range, perfect! DMM offset nuts and the biggest offset brass. Some find them hard to clean, but I don't really. The colour coded swage gives SAVE on a SET! Brass Offsets slot into tapered cracks - like pin scars and flared seams for protection & peace of mind. And I really love them nuts. DMM Brass Offsets, Alloy Offsets & Wallnuts for the primary part. OP JayPee630 04 Mar 2014 In reply to Choss: Mar 16, 2014 · In reply to anon60521: I have used pretty much everything except the relatively new BD Offsets over many years and found that the DMM Brass Offsets are the best and most useful option by far. This allows a thicker wire to be used, increasing the strength rating of each nut. OP JayPee630 04 Mar 2014 In reply to Choss: He has the 1-11 DMM Wallnuts which I really enjoy and was considering buying. At BananaFingers, find DMM Peenuts, the ideal choice for effectively managing small, flared placements on challenging rock types like granite and slate. The richer people also buy a set of DMM offsets, which are very sexy bits of gear, and a brilliant addition to a rack. Colour coded for easy size identification The DMM protection range is colour coded for quick and easy size selection. The brass offsets have a slightly larger angle of taper which, for me, doesn't seem to find as many placements. S - thought about the brass offsets, but most of them are too small to be of much use to me these days. DMM nuts can also be harder to clean for this reason. The DMM brass offsets are rated from anywhere between 2kn and 10kn. Wires are soldered directly into the nut head, allowing a thicker wire to be used and increasing overall strength. Aug 2, 2009 · In an ideal world I'd probably have lots of RPs/IMPs and brass offsets in the 1-3 size range for special occasions (e. I rarely ever bring offset cams, but DMM alloy and brass offsets are frequently on the rack for granite. All the alloy offsets are fine to whip on. 100% Satisfaction Guarantee What happened is you used them. 1-2 Complete sets of Brass Offset Stoppers 2 Complete sets of Offset Wild Country Superlight Rocks 16 Matching DMM Alpha Sport Draws or Petzl Spirit or The Edelrid Bulletproof in 17cm or longer length 16 Matching Camp Nano 22 or Petzl ange S Alpine Draws. . The wires they are mounted on are set into a recess to reduce wear, while larger sizes have holes that reduce weight. I have just recieved email from Black Diamond and it looks like Z4 camalots have been oficially released. Elevate your trad climbing game with DMM Brass Offsets! Shop now at Bananafingers for free EU shipping over €70! Price match promise! Mr-Cowdrey 22 Jun 2010 im looking at getting a set of micro wires, but im not sure what to buy i. The standard rack I bring for free climbing includes DMM wallnuts, alloy offsets, and peenuts. Anything smaller than that, I use the smaller BD Stoppers because I haven't been able to justify the price of DMM Brass Offsets yet. Wires are soldered directly into the nut head, allow The newer DMM HB offsets - SuperTopo's climbing discussion forum is the world's most popular community discussion forum for people who actively climb outdoors. A full set of them are the only microwires currently on my rack. The most popular combination seems to be a set of Wildcountry nuts and a set of DMM wallnuts. OP JayPee630 04 Mar 2014 In reply to Choss: I've got the BD micros and DMM brass offsets to go with my Wallnuts and alloy offsets. Is it because the shape gives you more options depending on the side you place against the crack? Jun 15, 2012 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. Don't forget about our price match guarantee! DMM brass offsets or IMP (copy of RP) have a higher rating than BD micros in the equivalent size FWIW. Top quality, great selection and expert advice you can trust. I would not recommend buying offsets for your first set of nuts, but their offsets are the standard offset by all accounts. Now I just wonder if someone is using them already? And how are they compared to X4 and especialy to DMM Dragonflies. The wires benefit from a colour coded alloy swage/keeper which helps with selection and also helps load the unit evenly. DMM- three point like the metolius, good quality, feel nice, but expensive. Use in conjunction with Wallnuts for compre Dmm wallnuts. I have several other options including the much-loved DMM offsets in the larger sizes. I found, since i got the DMM brass offsets, that most small placements have a constriction where you can place a nut or a offset. Didn't buy Peenuts because the brass and alloy offsets essentially form one complete range. You get to double up on the middle sizes, they’re not as aggressively offset so they still work well in normal placements, and they’re significantly lighter. Wires are soldered directly into the nut head, allow Aug 12, 2014 · The dmm alloy offsets will definitely joining my rack but can anyone shed any light on the benefits of peenuts vs the dmm brass offsets? This is for trad climbing incidentally, the bigger ones might join my winter rack too. Aug 17, 2015 · While by no means an expert, I prefer the DMM Peanuts in the smaller offset nut sizes and the newly released WC Superlight Offsets for the larger. Feb 7, 2021 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. Their offsets and brassies are things of legend. 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